10 Tips for Smoking Meat

For Father’s Day last year, we talked about Dirty Grilling (perhaps the manliest thing that can possibly be done with a steak). In prior years, we dedicated our June blogs to discussions of Grilling Basics and Advanced Grilling. This June, in honor of all the fathers out there who, like us, love to play with fire, let’s talk about one of our favorite topics, smoking meat.

Smoking meat has been an American tradition almost from before America had traditions. American colonists largely borrowed the technique from the Iroquois and Sioux tribes who smoked their wild game in smokehouses to preserve the meat. In recent years, the techniques for using smoke to add flavor, aroma, and a little dramatic flair have really caught on. Now you’ll see restaurants and high-end caterers using smoke extensively, not only for meat but for other kinds of foods and drinks as well, including cocktails and desserts.

Dessert, entrée, and cocktail by Salt Lake City high-end caterer, Culinary Crafts

Photos by Logan Walker

A Short History of Smoking Meat

Archaeological records show that our ancestors learned to cook with fire nearly a million years ago. In fact, preparing foods (especially meats) over the fire may have been one of the critical evolutionary steps in human history. Cooking killed harmful bacteria, parasites, and other foodborne illnesses. Homo erectus may have had no idea that fire made their food safer or that it broke down tough collagens to release more nutrients. But they surely must have noticed how much better meat tasted when slow-cooked over a smoky fire.

A site in modern Israel holds the oldest evidence of hominin cooking ever discovered to date. The fish fragments found at that site show evidence that the food was cooked at lower temperatures than a typical campfire generates. That suggests that the ancient chefs were not cooking directly in the flames. Instead, they seem to have used indirect heat and perhaps let their food be seasoned by the smoke. Who knew that Homo erectus was so ahead of their time?

All joking aside, there were probably very good reasons why early humans learned to cook with smoke. Not only does smoke contain antimicrobial agents that inhibit bacterial growth, the smoking process also removes water, which makes the food last longer. Imagine what an advantage it was for our ancestors to have dried, preserved food for a dependable, year-round food source!

Over the millennia, smoked meats literally found their way around the world. In fact, supplies of smoked meat may have helped make human migration possible.

Mesopotamia (circa 3000 BCE)

Mesopotamian clay tablets and murals show early food smoking methods.

North America (circa 3000 BCE)

Indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest smoked salmon, halibut, and other fish for food storage and as part of their feasting rituals.

Egypt (circa 2,000 BCE)

Fish, duck, and quail were preserved through a combination of salting and smoking. Apparently, these dried foods were believed to be important in the afterlife since they appear in sealed jars in tombs.

China (circa 1,000 BCE)

Ancient China raised smoking to an art form. They used tea leaves, rice, and aromatics to add subtle, exquisite flavors to pork, duck, and fish.

Viking and Norse cultures (circa 800 CE)

Mutton, pork, and fish (especially herring) were smoked for long-term storage during harsh winters and for long sea voyages. Some Nordic cultures still smoke reindeer, elk, lamb, and fish, giving rise to iconic dishes like smoked mackerel and smoked salmon.

Europe (5th to 15th century)

During the Middle Ages, Europeans refined smoking techniques to preserve hams, sausages, fish, and eels. Castles and manors had smokehouses that were symbols of wealth.

Colonial America (1600s-1700s)

European immigrants brought their knowledge of smoking from the Old Countries to America, then merged their smoking traditions with the smokehouses, pits, and drying racks that the native tribes were already using. In the South, colonists adopted the indigenous smoking methods for pork, giving rise to what we call barbeque.

Today

While preserving meat with smoke made a lot of sense pre-refrigeration, today it’s all about flavor! Well, that and community. Smoking takes time, and while there are other cooking techniques (such as grilling and barbequing) that can also turn a meal into an event, there is nothing like the aroma of smoking meat to draw a crowd to gather around the smoker, swap tips, and anticipate sharing a delicious meal.

Barbeque Pulled Pork by Salt Lake City caterer, Culinary Crafts

Photo by Angela Howard

Do I need to buy a smoker?

Technically, you can smoke meat in anything that holds a fire and has somewhere to put the meat so long as it can cook in the smoke and not in the direct heat. People have been known to make their own smokers out of empty steel drums, old water heaters, propane tanks, and filing cabinets. Ryan Crafts, co-owner of Culinary Crafts, made his first smoker out of a retired school locker. (Once the old paint and toxins had been burned and scraped away, the locker made a surprisingly effective smoker.)

That said, there are definite advantages to buying a good smoker.

Part of what makes smoking meat more difficult than grilling or barbequing is that with smoking you have two temperatures to manage at the same time. While one heat source is cooking your food “slow and low” (i.e. at a lower temperature for a longer time), the other heat source is creating the smoke that will give your food that amazing smoky smell and flavor. Maintaining both temperatures throughout your entire cook can be a challenge.

Commercial Smokers

Traeger makes some excellent “set-it and forget-it” grills and smokers for hands-free cooking. You just set your precise target temperatures and monitor your cook remotely through WiFIRE technology. Alternatively, you can choose from a variety of commercially available log pits, smoker ovens, and charcoal or gas grills. These vary widely in price and quality, so do a little research to find exactly what you’re looking for. Of course, none of these store-bought smokers are likely to come with memories of high school or an old combination lock!

Of course, you can smoke meat without a smoker at all. You can use an ordinary gas or charcoal grill. Just arrange your meat so that it’s not directly over your heat source. Add wood chips that are wrapped in tin foil, and set your temperature low, around 225-250°F. Don’t expect the results to be quite as flavorful as meat made in a smoker, but these are certainly viable options for smoking meat.

We should mention the growing trend of home chefs using their oven as a smoker. While you certainly can smoke meat indoors that way, we don’t recommend it. Smoke contains carbon monoxide that you don’t want your family to breathe. Even if you ventilate well enough to make indoor smoking safe, it’s going to be a nightmare getting rid of the smell of smoke in your house.
If I do buy a smoker, which one should I get?

That depends on how much and how often you plan to smoke, how much you’re willing to spend on your smoker, and where you’ll store it.
- Size—Unlike grilling, where you can slap down multiple steaks or burgers in quick succession, smoking takes hours and hours, so you need a grill that’s large enough to cook all your meat at once. (Bear in mind that “low and slow” cooking will shrink your meat by almost half its original size.) At the same time, you don’t want a smoker that’s so big you don’t have space to store it.
- Airflow—It doesn’t do much good to generate delicious smoke if it isn’t reaching your meat and bathing it in all that smoky goodness. Before you buy a smoker, read up on the model’s airflow. The smokestack and the smoke box (where the smoke is generated) need to be located on opposite ends of the cook chamber. That way, the smoke is forced to pass over your meat before going up the chimney.
- Materials—Avoid smokers made from thin or flimsy materials. Besides being more breakable and prone to rust, thin-walled smokers tend to do a poor job of maintaining a consistent temperature. Look for metal that’s at least ⅛ inch thick.
- Thermometer—A decent smoker needs a good thermometer. Unfortunately, some models use a cheap, unreliable thermometer and place it at the top of the cook chamber, which doesn’t make sense. You don’t need to know how hot it is at the top of the smoker; you need to know the temperature down at the level where your food is cooking. If the model you like doesn’t have a reliable, well-positioned thermometer, you can install one yourself.
What meats are best for smoking?

If you’re a smoking beginner, it might be wise to start off with chicken, turkey, or pork (especially pork shoulder/Boston butt). Relatively simple and forgiving, these meats are likely to give you great results on your first try. When you’ve had a chance to get to know your smoker and refine your technique, it may be time to move on to pork ribs, pork belly, beef brisket or tri-tip, beef ribs, or salmon.

The meats that benefit most from smoking are tougher cuts like beef brisket or ribs, lamb breast, chuck roast, and pork butt. These cuts have a lot of tough muscle fibers and connective tissue, so they need the slow, low temperature smoking process to break down the fibers and tenderize the meat. The high fat content in these cuts also helps to make the meat moist and flavorful. (Smoke them with the fatty side on top.)
How do I maintain a consistent smoker temperature?

If you’re trying to follow a recipe for your smoked meat, it’s important to sustain a steady temperature throughout the cook. Running too hot or too cold can either dry out your meat or fail to cook it sufficiently to break down all its collogen. As you become more familiar with your smoker and with the cooking process, you’ll be able to adjust, so maintaining a steady temperature won’t be quite as crucial.
- Get a reliable thermometer. If your smoker doesn’t have one, or if the thermometer is positioned at the top of your smoker, you may have to drill a hole in your smoker to position a quality thermometer at the level where your meat cooks. (See Tip 3.)
- A thick, well-insulated smoker will do a much better job of maintaining a steady temperature.
- Preheat your smoker to the desired temperature before you add your meat. This will help you match the cook time called for by your recipe. It will also help make sure that you’re cooking with “good smoke.” The black, billowing smoke that’s often produced as a fire is getting started is not something you want on your food. Wait until the smoke is thin, wispy, and almost blue.
- Manage airflow. Opening or closing vents will alter the airflow, which will affect the temperature in your smoker. So will opening the smoker door more often than necessary, so avoid that.
- Use a water pan. (See Tip 2.)
Photo by Angela Howard
What wood types give the best flavor?

When it comes to smoking meat, only hardwoods will work, Soft woods like pine and spruce have too much sap and will make your meat taste nasty. Plywood or unidentified scraps should be avoided. (Why trust your beautiful brisket to chance, not to mention risking your health?) Ideally, you should use whole hardwood logs if your smoker can handle them. Realistically, most home smokers have to settle for smaller chunks, or pellets.

The type of wood you use depends on the flavor and strength of smokiness you’re after.

Mesquite

Let’s get the controversial one out of the way first. Mesquite produces an intense smoky flavor which is very popular in barbeque pits across much of Texas. But a lot of people find its pungent smoke to be overpowering. If you like the taste of mesquite, it’s best to use it for smoking meats like brisket and pork shoulder that can stand up to mesquite’s powerfully smoky flavors. Make sure your mesquite is not still green at all, and don’t oversmoke with it or your food will turn bitter.

Hickory

There’s a reason why hickory is the most popular wood for smoking many kinds of meats. Bacon! Its strong, savory flavor carries undertones of bacon, and what doesn’t bacon go well with? Hickory pairs well with everything from poultry and pork to beef and even some fish. It’s not as overpowering as mesquite, but it still packs some pretty strong flavors, which is what you want if you’re going through the trouble of smoking meat.

Oak

Oak is even more versatile than hickory. It goes well with almost any meat because its smoke is strong enough to be tasted but not to take center stage. Think of oak as an Academy Award-winning Supporting Actor.

Pine

You’re never going to smoke meat (or any other food) with pine. Remember? Just seeing if you were paying attention.

Maple

Sweet and subtle, maple smoke is ideal for smoking ham or bacon. It’s also great for poultry, fish, and vegetables.

Alder

Alder has a light, earthy smoke, which makes it a great choice for Pacific salmon or any kind of seafood.

Pecan

Related to hickory, pecan wood is a favorite for many experienced smokers because of the sweet, nutty flavor it adds.

Fruitwoods

Fruitwoods like apple, cherry, peach, apricot, plum, or pear have a mild, sweet, slightly fruity smoke flavor. They are fantastic for more delicate meats like chicken, fish, or pork tenderloin, but they’re too subtle for a heavy-hitter like beef brisket.

Pro Tip: You don’t necessarily have to use wood in your smoke! Pecan shells or dried herbs can replace wood chips. Pre-soaking them in water for 30 minutes will help them smolder and produce a good amount of smoke and steam. (Pre-soaking is not a technique we generally recommend with regular wood or wood chips—see Tip 6.)
Should I soak wood chips before smoking?

This is a hotly debated question in the smoking world. (“Hotly.” Get it?) Wet wood will smolder but not burn until its moisture has evaporated away, so some chefs like to soak their wood to maximize the amount of smoke it will produce and prolong the smoking time.

Except in rare situations, we side with the No-Soaking camp.

Sure, wet wood will produce lots of smoke, but it’s thick, black smoke that tends to coat your food with an acrid, bitter taste. Maybe if you’re using an exceptionally hot fire that would incinerate your wood chips before they could produce a significant amount of smoke, it could make sense to slow down the process by soaking your wood chips first. Or if your smoke source will be pecan shells or something else that will burn too easily, soaking makes sense. But otherwise, the best method will probably be to keep your wood chips away from your main heat source and maintain a steady temperature that will give you lots of smoke without having to soak them.

Grilled flank steak by Salt Lake City catering company, Culinary Crafts

Photo by Pepper Nix
What internal temperature is safe for meat?

Here are the USDA’s recommended safe internal cooking temperatures:

Beef, Pork, Veal, and Lamb
- Steaks, chops, roasts: 145°F
  (Allow to rest for at least 3 minutes before serving)
Ground Meat
- Beef, pork, veal, lamb (ground): 160°F
- Chicken, turkey (ground): 165°F
Poultry
- Whole bird or parts (chicken, turkey, duck): 165°F
Ham
- Fresh or raw ham: 145°F
  (Allow to rest for at least 3 minutes before serving)
- Fully cooked ham (reheat): 140°F if from a USDA-inspected plant, or 165°F if reheated after home storage
Fish
- 145°F or until flesh is opaque and separates easily
Bear in mind that when smoking or barbequing meat, the goal is not simply to reach a safe internal temperature and then take it off the heat. It takes time to infuse the right amount of smoky flavor and to break down tough cuts of meat until they’re juicy and tender. For tips on managing your heat source to maintain a steady temperature, see our blog on Fuel and Fire.
How long should I smoke meat?

Until you’ve smoked enough times to be comfortable with your tools and techniques, the best guide for cooking and smoking times is to follow a reliable recipe.

That’s an important distinction to make: “cooking time” is not necessarily the same as “smoking time.” If you’re smoking a tough cut of meat like a beef brisket, you’ll want to cook it for a long period at a relatively low temperature, perhaps for 8-10 hours. But you won’t want your meat to be “smoking” for that long. There is such a thing as too much smoke. Once your brisket has a nice, dark, crusty bark on the outside, you may need to cut off your supply of smoke. If the smoke is coming from the same wood as your main heat source, wrap your meat in butcher paper or tinfoil and allow it to finish cooking without picking up more smoke.

Smoking times vary based on the type and size of the meat, but here are some rough guidelines:
- Brisket: Approximately 12 hours for an 11-pound cut.
- Pork shoulder/butt: 8–10 hours.
- Ribs: 4–5 hours.
- Whole chicken: 3+ hours.
- Turkey: About 50 minutes per pound.
Again, there are so many factors that can affect both cooking time and smoking time that the best bet is just to follow your recipe until you figure out what works for you.
How can I keep my meat from drying out?

Placing a water pan in your smoker between your meat and your main heat source can help keep meat from drying out, but it has tradeoffs.

On the one hand, a water tray can raise humidity and reduce surface evaporation of the meat, especially in long cooks like brisket or pork shoulder. A moist surface helps smoke particles stick to the meat, giving it more flavor. Also, a water pan can catch drippings from fats or oils before they fall into the fire. This is important because if fats and oils burn, they create the wrong kind of smoke, giving your meat a bitter taste as well as coating it in benzopyrene, a known carcinogen.

On the other hand, some smoking purists argue that a water pan unnecessarily prolongs cooking times and creates steam that throws off your balance of smoke. Those purists have a point, and there certainly are some magnificent smokers who don’t use water pans at all.

Here’s what we suggest. Unless you are using an electric or pellet smoker where heat and humidity are already controlled automatically, we recommend using a water pan. True, it will slow down your cooking time, but cooking “low and slow” is the point of smoking and barbequing in the first place.

Another simple way to prevent your meat from drying out is to avoid opening the smoker lid more frequently than necessary. Every time you open the lid, you let out heat and prolong the overall cooking time.

Finally, if dry meat continues to be an issue for you, consider spritzing the meat occasionally with water, apple juice or other fruit juice, apple cider vinegar, or beer during cooking. (Do it quickly to avoid having that door open any longer than necessary.)

Smoked beef brisket by Salt Lake City catering company, Culinary Crafts
How do I get a good bark and a nice smoke ring?

Smoke Ring

Here, we need to clear up a common misconception.

It is widely believed in barbequing circles that the smoke ring (that pinkish-red band that appears just below the surface of smoked meat) is an indication of great flavor and superior barbequing technique. That isn’t true. The smoke ring can sometimes indicate how deeply the smoke has penetrated into the meat, but it also depends on factors like how cold the meat was at the beginning of the smoke and how quickly it heated up. A smoke ring is not a reliable indicator of how well the meat was smoked or how it will taste.

On the other hand, since many people have come to expect to see a ring on well-smoked meat, there’s nothing wrong with giving the people what they want. If a nice, thick smoke ring is your goal, try starting with a colder (perhaps even frozen) chunk of meat and adjust your cooking time accordingly.

Bark

What does directly affect the taste of your smoked meat, however, is the bark. Bark is the name we use for the delicious caramelized, crispy crust that forms on the surface of meat smoked low and slow. Similar to the crust on a grilled steak, the bark is the result of the Maillard reaction where heat and smoke interact with the meat’s proteins and sugars. To develop a great bark on your meat:
- Season meat with a rub of spices prior to smoking.
- Maintain a consistent low temperature throughout your cook, typically between 180° and 250°. A higher temperature is sometimes used initially to get that Maillard reaction started.
- Pay close attention, especially during the first few hours of the smoking process as the bark is formed.
- Make sure the meat has access to some moisture, but maintain good airflow so that your meat is exposed to the smoke and moisture can evaporate off the surface. Surface moisture is good for helping the smoke to stick and incorporate into the developing bark, but don’t overdo the moisture or it will start to interfere with bark formation.
For more tips and information on smoking and barbequing, keep your eye on this space. If you’d like to add delectable barbeque or/or smoked foods to your next catered event, visit our website. Talk to one of our top event planners about how Culinary Crafts can help you “bring the smoke.”

10 Tips for Smoking Meat